Lining

We had chosen to use American White Oak for our interior so we ordered a quantity of real veneer panels, 12mm for the sides and 6mm for the roof.
Firstly I worked out that I could get three sections below the gunwales, if I had the grain running vertically, out of one sheet. After cutting I varnished the backs to act as balancing (prevent boards from twisting and curving ) and drilled along the edges with a plug cutter so the screws would disappear later on. All the edges were sanded and varnished.

Cut outs were made where the sockets would be required, then the boards were screwed to the battens. I did not use any adhesive at this point because I want these panels to be removable at all times.
Above the gunwales I chose to run the grain horizontal along the boat

. This would give me a contrast of light and dark shadows to break up any monotony.
Of course this would make fitting a lot more difficult as the boat sides were leaning in towards me. Also this is a solo project so lining up the panel and fixing required more than 2 hands. However with the use of a "workmate" and some legs I clamped into it I figured out a system that worked.
Although the boards were cut to length and height, I ignored the window and porthole positions, as I prefered to do that in position using a jigsaw and small hand router.

For the roof I used 6mm boards so they would follow the curve nicely. I had run the battens down the length of the boat, as opposed to across the width, this formed a slight saddle back look to the roof.
Again I cut the holes for the mushroom vents after the boards were attached to the battens.
Where the roof and sides met I was going to create lighting pelmets to keep the headroom in the main area of lounge, dinette and galley.
After fitting the boards were varnished on the fronts.