As Purrrfect she had bow thrusters fitted and the hydraulics ran the length of the boat, this dictated that I would have to raise the floor.
After cutting lengths of 3*2 to size I fixed them to the base struts using 3" stainless steel self tapping screw.
Then I fixed further lengths of 3*2 at 90 degrees to run the length of the boat and clear the hydraulic pipes.
These were also strategically placed to create access panels to the ballast and the hydraulics.
Using 18mm spruce ply, that I had treated on both sides prior to cutting, I created a series of access panels 300mm wide to run the complete length of the boat covering the hydraulics. This gave me a straight line that I used as a datum point for all setting out.
For the rest of the floor I cut panels at 27" centres to align with the ballast and then trimmed them to the width of the boat.
All of the edges were sanded and then treated with yacht varnish.
As the panels were fitted the substructure was adapted to become removable at the access panel positions
Soon the floor was completed and the difference was amazing. I could set up work benches, a mini kitchen from our camping gear and even a chair and small table.
She looks good in those photos. What's your headroom after raising the floor?
ReplyDeleteI was left with 6ft 2 after the roof lining went in
ReplyDeleteOf course it gets less with the curve of the roof but as I am only 5,6 I'm happy with it.
That's really good. I was expecting that you'd lose a lot more headroom than that.
DeleteWe were quite worried about the upkeep of hydraulic bow thrusters (and having to take up flooring) on new build so we cheekily opted for electric ones! :)
She was originally built quite tall and I kept the subprime to the minimum possible, I wouldn't have put bow thrusters in on a boat this size but by choice I would have gone electric I think the rampage is comparable.
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